Description
A note from the author:
When I first wrote this series in the mid 1980s, many of the southern climbing areas were barely known outside their own communities. Since local climbers are often a bit secretive, my goal was never to expose private reserves to the national public without the endorsement of local activists. Fortunately, some of the leading southern climbers showed me their recent projects. When my northern friends bought this book they were amazed by what they saw and immediately went on a road trip, where they were blown away by southern granite and climbing standards.
Areas have been developed since this book was written, most notably Red River Gorge in Kentucky. And harder routes have been put up–this book only contains one 5.13 and not many 5.12s–but for most of us these cliffs and these routes are more than enough for a few fantastic road trips.
Soon I’ll be digitizing the book so you, too, can take it on a road trip. Shortly thereafter, I’ll upgrade the photos, swapping out color photos for the original black-and-white. Not to worry, anyone who buys the original digital edition (Digital 1.0) will get a coupon for a heavily discounted second edition (Digital 2.0). For an explanation of the John Harlin Media update/upgrade process, please click here.
Table of Contents:
Introduction (how to use this book, ratings, American climbing style and ethics, etc.)
East Coast rock climbs overview and history
Climbing areas covered in depth:
- Chattanooga, Tennessee
- Looking Glass/Whitesides, North Carolina
- Linville Gorge, North Carolina
- Stone Mountain, North Carolina
- Moore’s Wall, North Carolina
- New River Gorge, West Virginia
- Seneca Rocks, West Virginia
- Carderock/Great Falls, Washington D.C.
- Shawangunks, New York
- Adirondacks, New York
- Traprock, Connecticut
- Cannon/North Conway, New Hampshire
- Mount Desert Island, Maine
- Les Laurentides, Quebec
- Charlevoix, Quebec
Plus these other areas briefly mentioned (with access info and photos):
- Old Rag Mountain, Virginia
- Chestnut Ridge, West Virginia
- Ralph Stove State Park, Pennsylvania
- Stoneyridge, Pennsylvania
- Bellefonte Quarry, Pennsylvania
- Manhattan, New York
- Fort Wetherill State Park, Rhode Island
- Lincoln Woods State Park, Rhode Island
- Boston, Massachusetts
- Crow Hill, Massachusetts
- Pawtuckaway State Park, New Hampshire
- Portland, Maine
- Payne Ledge, Maine
- Mount Katahdin, Maine
- Sherbrooke, Quebec
- Quebec City, Quebec





jhm –
Reviews for the CGNA series when it came out include:
“… an incredible “greatest hits” collection of climbs … provides all the information needed to locate and climb in each area … the many scenic and ‘action shots’ give a good feel for the climbing found in each locale … deserves to become a standard and much used reference. … A major contribution to the information on the American climbing scene.” — Rock & Ice Magazine
“It whets the appetite … it makes you want to pack up the car and go to the East Coast, the West Coast, and everywhere in between. A practical and informative addition to any climber’s library.” — Michael Kennedy
“… very worthwhile … of immense help to foreign visitors like me.” – Chris Bonington
“This is a worthy effort, filling a genuine need. It facilitates the traveler’s ability to make the most of his time and maximize the time spent on first-rate, enjoyable rock.” – Royal Robbins
“A Herculean effort.” – Henry Barber
“It should spread us all out a bit more … will benefit climbing.” – Yvon Chouinard
“… dynamic cross cultural climbing makes this guide something special.” – Deutscher Alpenverein
“This is a sort of climber’s boutique … choice routes … carefully chosen.” – Outside Magazine
“He has succeeded magnificently.” – Der Bergsteiger
“… clear, concise, and complete… a tremendous achievement.” – Climbing Magazine
“It’s a must … an important aid.” – Mountain Magazine
“An Australian friend of mine swears by this guide, calling it ‘bloody marvelous’.” — The Whole Earth Review
“An unqualified success.” “… proven to be immensely popular. Not only has the book opened up several ‘new’ areas for climbers to enjoy, but it has also done a better job of documenting certain other areas than the local guidebook authors have done themselves. … highly recommended, and I hope John Harlin continues and improves the series. — American Alpine Journal