Description
A note from the author:
When I wrote the CGNA series in the mid 1980s, most of these crags were already popular. But a few were barely known outside their local communities. Some of these “unknowns” have since become internationally famous–City of Rocks in particular. That wasn’t my goal. I never exposed a crag unless the locals were happy to do so, and I only included crags where local activists volunteered information.
Many new areas have been developed since this book was written, most notably Shelf Road and Rifle (both in Colorado), as well as a new part of the Needles (South Dakota) where rappel-bolting was welcomed. And harder routes have been put up in recent decades–this book stops at 5.12. But the crags and the routes you see here are the historical classics. For most of us they are more than enough for the road trip of our dreams. And that was the whole point of the book.
Table of Contents:
Introduction (how to use this book, ratings, American climbing style and ethics, etc.)
Rocky Mountain Rock Climbs overview and history
Climbing areas covered in depth:
- Granite Mountain, Arizona
- Sandias, New Mexico
- Zion, Utah
- Canyonlands, Utah
- Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
- Telluride, Colorado
- Black Canyon, Colorado
- Aspen, Colorado
- Pike’s Peak, Colorado
- Garden of the Gods, Colorado
- Turkey Rocks, Colorado
- Boulder, Colorado
- Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
- Vedauwoo, Wyoming
- Fremont Canyon, Wyoming
- Devils Tower, Wyoming
- Needles, South Dakota
- City of Rocks, Idaho
- Blodgett Canyon, Montana
Note 1: Several new crags were researched for a second edition that was intended for publication in 1993. That second edition was never printed. I will release it as a digital edition, including revisions to some of the original chapters, in a substantial upgrade to this original volume. Another upgrade will swap out color photos for the original black-and-whites. Purchasers of this Digital 1.0 edition will receive coupons for substantial discounts for future upgrades. For an explanation of the John Harlin Media update/upgrade process, please click here. To get your discount coupon and learn when new editions come out, please sign up for the newsletter (in the right column of this page).
Note 2: This guide stops at the Canadian border because everything north was intended for a future “Mountains” volume of the Climber’s Guide to North America. The San Juans, the Tetons, and the Wind Rivers were also destined for this future volume on mountains. This explains why several iconic Rocky Mountain climbing areas are missing from this book. Unfortunately, personal economics stopped this project at three volumes instead of the intended seven.
jhm (verified owner) –
Reviews for the CGNA series when it came out include:
“… an incredible “greatest hits” collection of climbs … provides all the information needed to locate and climb in each area … the many scenic and ‘action shots’ give a good feel for the climbing found in each locale … deserves to become a standard and much used reference. … A major contribution to the information on the American climbing scene.” — Rock & Ice Magazine
“It whets the appetite … it makes you want to pack up the car and go to the East Coast, the West Coast, and everywhere in between. A practical and informative addition to any climber’s library.” — Michael Kennedy
“… very worthwhile … of immense help to foreign visitors like me.” – Chris Bonington
“This is a worthy effort, filling a genuine need. It facilitates the traveler’s ability to make the most of his time and maximize the time spent on first-rate, enjoyable rock.” – Royal Robbins
“A Herculean effort.” – Henry Barber
“It should spread us all out a bit more … will benefit climbing.” – Yvon Chouinard
“… dynamic cross cultural climbing makes this guide something special.” – Deutscher Alpenverein
“This is a sort of climber’s boutique … choice routes … carefully chosen.” – Outside Magazine
“He has succeeded magnificently.” – Der Bergsteiger
“… clear, concise, and complete… a tremendous achievement.” – Climbing Magazine
“It’s a must … an important aid.” – Mountain Magazine
“An Australian friend of mine swears by this guide, calling it ‘bloody marvelous’.” — The Whole Earth Review
“An unqualified success.” “… proven to be immensely popular. Not only has the book opened up several ‘new’ areas for climbers to enjoy, but it has also done a better job of documenting certain other areas than the local guidebook authors have done themselves. … highly recommended, and I hope John Harlin continues and improves the series. — American Alpine Journal