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* American Alpine Journal 2012



Published annually since 1929, the American Alpine Journal is internationally renowned as the finest publication of its kind—the world’s “journal of record” for documenting significant climbs. In the Feature Stories we hear from those who have made many of the most impressive first ascents of the year: the big routes that will become tomorrow’s legends. In Climbs & Expeditions we discover what else has happened in almost all the world’s mountains. The 2012 edition is 400 pages long. See the table of contents below.


The 2012 edition of the American Alpine Journal contains:

Feature Articles:

Recon: Titcomb Basin, by Joe Kelsey
Wyoming’s Wind River Mountains hold some of America’s favorite wilderness rock. The southern granite is famous. The north? Have a look for yourself.

The Shark’s Fin Redux, by Jimmy Chin
Success at last on Meru Central’s spectacular Shark’s Fin, India.

On Darwin’s Edge, by Didier Jourdain
The first complete traverse of the Cordillera Darwin, Tierra del Fuego, Chile.

Cerro Torre Rebooted, by Kelly Cordes
Forty-two years ago much of the climbing world exploded in rage when 400 bolts were added to an icon. This year it exploded again when many of those bolts were removed.

By Fair Means, by Hayden Kennedy
The first ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre without Maestri’s bolts.

Cerro Torre Free, by David Lama
By an accident of timing, the long-coveted first free ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre takes place without Maestri’s bolts as protection.

Venas Azules, by Bjørn-Eivind Aartun
An ice climber’s dream line reveals itself on the south face of Torre Egger, Patagonia.

The Mausoleum, by Clint Helander
The first ascent of Mt. Mausolus in Alaska’s little-known Revelation Mountains.

Continuing Education, by Kevin Ditzler
Severely tested on the first ascent of the 8,500-foot southwest spur of University Peak, Alaska.

Baba Tangi, by Pat Deavoll
A team of sisters makes the first ascent of the northwest ridge of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6,516m), Afghanistan.

The Old Breed, by Mark Richey
The first ascent of Saser Kangri II (7,518m) and other peaks in the Eastern Karakoram, India.

Climbs & Expeditions Reports:

North America:
Contiguous United States, Alaska, Canada

South America:
Colombia, Venezuela, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina

Greenland, Antarctica, Iran, Morocco, Norway

Central Asia:
Russia, Georgia, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Afghanistan

Pakistan, India, Nepal, China, Tibet, Mongolia, Indonesia


AAC Grants

Book Reviews, edited by David Stevenson
New books by Fred Beckey, Jim Davidson, Wade Davis, Ed Douglas, Damien Gildea, Emil Henry, Sandy Hill, Joy Logan, John Long, Paul Maxim, Bernadette McDonald, John Scurlock, and Ed Viesturs with David Roberts.

In Memoriam, edited by Cameron M. Burns
Remembering Ann Brooks Carter, Steve Hackett, James W. Ebert, James Goodwin, James H. Kanzler, Victor Curt Mahler, Bonnie Prudden, and George Sainsbury.

AAC Club Activities, edited by Frederick O. Johnson


International Grade Comparison Chart

Submission guidelines, expanded reports, additional photos, topos, and comments are available at

Additional information




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