American Alpine Journal 2011

Description

The 2011 edition of the American Alpine Journal contains:

 Feature Articles:

 I-TO, by Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama
The first ascent of the immense south face of Mt. Logan, Canada.

DoDo’s Delight, by Bob Shepton
The Wild Bunch slays one virgin wall after another on the Greenland 2010 – Tilman
International expedition.

The Rose of No-Man’s Land, by Bruce Normand
Eight days under threat on the east face of Mt. Edgar, in Sichuan, yields a route almost too dangerous to be proud of.

Season Finale, by Alex Honnold
In today’s Yosemite, a good half-day is an ascent of Half Dome and El Cap, both solo. But climbing three El Cap routes still takes a full day.

Takargo, Joe Puryear
Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley delivers a paradise of unclimbed waterfall ice and a 6,771-meter virgin summit.

The Serpent King, by Malcolm Bass
The first ascent of the west face of Vasuki Parbat, India.

Dracula, by Bjørn-Eivind Aartun
Seventy-one sleepless hours during a first ascent on the southeast face of Mt. Foraker, in the Alaska Range.

Journeys to Western Sichuan, by Tamotsu Nakamura
A return visit to the Shaluli Shan reveals troublesome changes in the mostly unclimbed peaks of the Litang Plateau, China.

Climbs and Expeditions:

Contiguous United States, Alaska, Canada, Greenland

Venezuela, Guyana, Brazil, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Chile

Antarctica, Norway

Middle East (Turkey, Oman), Africa (Canary Islands, Mali, Chad)

CIS (Russia, Georgia, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan), Kyrgyzstan, Afghanistan

Pakistan, India, Nepal, China, Tibet, Laos

AAC Grants

Book Reviews, edited by David Stevenson
New books by Steve “Crusher” Bartlett, Ron Fawcett, Frederic Hartemann & Robert Hauptman, Jennifer Jordan, Royal Robbins, Jane Sievert & Jennifer Ridgeway, Norman Schaefer, Stephen E. Schmid, Joseph E. Taylor III, and Freddie Wilkinson.

In Memoriam, edited by Cameron M. Burns
Remembering Ross Bronson, Rich Jack, Christian Pruchnic, Joseph Puryear, Lorna
Ream, and Douglas Zimmerman.

Club Activities, edited by Frederick O. Johnson

Index

International Grade Comparison Chart